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Today's big adventure was a boat ride on Lake Geneva, or, as the locals
call it, Lac Leman. The famous "jet d'eau" was out of commission
today because of the weather, but the equally famous if not equally
obvious Neptune's rocks were visible, as were sailboarders and other
sailors on the lake. |
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This
is a bridge over the mouth of the Rhône River, which flows from Lake
Geneva south. The Île de Rousseau is on the left, out of the frame, and
the Île de Rhône is directly ahead on the right.
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The trees and swans of Île de Rousseau, the tiny island named for native
Jean-Jacques Rousseau of enlightenment philosophy fame. There is
also a restaurant here. |
Like many European cathedrals, St. Peter's, Geneva, caps the highest
point of the town. |
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Villas line the shores of Lake Geneva. |
Le Palais Wilson, named for President
Wilson, who established the League of Nations. |
A group of cottages on the west shore, with the Alps in the background. |
A west shore community |
We
returned to the old city and did some digging around St. Peter's
Cathedral and Calvin's Auditoire, where he did much of his preaching.
There was no sign anywhere of Louis Bourgeois, and precious little
mention of any musician, composer, or even music, save what we saw
yesterday at the Reformation museum. I harbor the suspicion that
they mentioned Goudimel only because he was one of the victims of the
St. Bartholemew's Day massacre.
It
is curious to note that in Calvin's own stomping grounds, where one
would imagine the most strict Calvinism might have taken root,
iconoclasm seems to have used a light touch. Rather than a
wholesale ruin of all images and art, stained glass, some sculpture,
organ, (and presumably polyphonic/homophonic and choral music) and
architectural aesthetic remain both at St. Peter's and in the Auditoire.
Consistory stalls at St.
Peter's:
We
had the good fortune to meet and speak with the organist who serves the
congregation of Scottish Presbyterians that meets now in the Auditoire,
and hear him play a Bach prelude and fugue in preparation for Sunday's
service. We also noted with some disappointment that in the latest
refurbishing of the interior, Calvin's arrangement of placing the pulpit
in the center of the long wall was supplanted with the more common (and
more modern) placement at the end opposite the entrance. There was
no explanation given for the change; for what it's worth, I think Calvin
had it right.
Close-up of stained glass in St.
Peter's |
Close-up of stained glass in St.
Peter's;
note the papal seal in the bottom right pane. |
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Calvin's chair |
The pulpit at St. Peter's |
St. Peter's Nave (stairs to the pulpit and a hymn board are on the
left). |
Portal to St. Mary's chapel in St. Peter's |
The choir area at St. Peter's |
Front of the pulpit, with a communion table and the organ in the
background. |
The evening
was spent trying to get some of these pages up and posted, along with organizing
our belongings for the trip home, deciding what to send via post and what to
squirrel away in which valise. We were to take the afternoon train back to
Roissy-en-France on the morrow.
Next day:
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